EvalState: Don't maintain stats by default

These counters are extremely expensive in a multi-threaded
program. For instance, disabling them speeds up evaluation of the
NixOS/nix/2.21.2 from 32.6s to 17.8s.

src/libexpr/nixexpr.cc

@@ -11,7 +11,7 @@
 
 namespace nix {
 
-unsigned long Expr::nrExprs = 0;
+Counter Expr::nrExprs;
 
 ExprBlackHole eBlackHole;